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Stole this from Tuner, very good information here:
The are 3 types of nissan 4 piston calipers.
1. 30mm iron
2. 30mm aluminium
3. 26mm aluminium
each with their specific thickness rotor.
Stock SE-R brakes:
Piston area = Pi (r^2)
Brake surface = 3.14 (22.5^2) x 2 = 3180.86
Brake surface = 3180.86
On Z32 brakes:
Piston area = Pi (r^2)
Brake surface = 3.14 (20.25^2) x 4 = 5153
Brake surface = 5153
So you have around 62% more braking power on the front than a stock SE-R, you also have more mechanical force with the bigger diameter rotors, as well as better resistance to get the heat up the brakes, since you got more material on the bigger and thicker rotor and a bigger caliper helping with the heat distribution.
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B13 / B14 Z32 (300zx) Brake upgrade
And this is the part list:
Z32 calipers: (duh!)
I highly recommend to get the ones from the 1990 N/A 300zx, as they fit better in our little cars, and they won’t need a massively thick rotor.
U13 Altima (or G20) brake rotors:
They have the same diameter as the Z32 rotor (280mm), its a little bit thinner though (22mm vs the 26mm of the N/A Z)
(for those who want 4x114.3 all around use g20 rear hubs it bolts into your rear b13 spindle and this is a fact not speculation. Now you can have a P11 like me yaaaa! I think it should also work on the B14 as they share the same spindle-spline pattern.)
U13 Altima master cylinder:
It will be helpful, considering you have in one single wheel, the same amount of pistons you had in the whole car before lol
And this is the heart of the project, nothing makes sense, and nothing will fit on your car, unless you have this:
B15 Sentra Steering knuckle and hubs:
Yes, this means your front wheels will be now 114x4. But the Z32 caliper and Altima rotors will fit, right in. No adapter plates, no custom job. But most of the aftermaket wheels have 100x4 and 114x4, as my enkeis.
Optional parts:
This depends on the wheels you are using, due to spoke design of my wheels, I had to run spacers now.
Unfortunately, is not that easy, while bolting everything in, we found that due to the B15 knuckle, the rotor needs to be reduced in diameter 4 milimeters, or otherwise it will hit the caliper. So you have to take the rotors to a machine shop before bolting everything in.
I think is a good bang for the buck conversion, considering the ridiculous price out there for 4 piston brake kits. I will post some pics of the final results right now.
-----------------------------------------------------------
P11 Brake Upgrade
S14 calipers (30mm iron or aluminum, 26mm is also an option but then you need thinner discs).
S14 discs (280 x 30 mm) and drill them to 4 x 114,3 and turn them to 276 mm, or atleast that's what I did. Or buy discs with this specs OEM.
S14 pads (remove the wear indicator on the pad nearest to the wheel 'cause it can hit the wheelhub)
Sunny N14 banjobolt (2x) (the N14 banjobolt is shorter from the factory. In fact, the N14 bolt is the exact length you need if you should cut the P11 bolt (minus 5mm) so go to the Nissan dealer and buy these! It's plug n play!
P11 brakehoses (or Goodridge)
4 new bolts + washers to mount the calipers (always a good thing to have fresh mounting hardware)
Brake fluid (I did DOT5.1)
It's all plug 'n play now!. Car on jackstands, remove wheel, remove 2 nuts on the rear of the caliper, remove bajobolt, let fluid leak into a pan or something, remove caliper+disc, place new disc, place pads into calipers, put caliper back on, fit new bajobolt and make sure there's no air in the system.
Oops, I forgot 1 thing. You need to cut away the splash guard and grind/sand down a little bit (1mm perhaps) on the inside of the caliper cause there is a chance that the discs will scrape a tiny bit.
The are 3 types of nissan 4 piston calipers.
1. 30mm iron
2. 30mm aluminium
3. 26mm aluminium
each with their specific thickness rotor.
Stock SE-R brakes:
Piston area = Pi (r^2)
Brake surface = 3.14 (22.5^2) x 2 = 3180.86
Brake surface = 3180.86
On Z32 brakes:
Piston area = Pi (r^2)
Brake surface = 3.14 (20.25^2) x 4 = 5153
Brake surface = 5153
So you have around 62% more braking power on the front than a stock SE-R, you also have more mechanical force with the bigger diameter rotors, as well as better resistance to get the heat up the brakes, since you got more material on the bigger and thicker rotor and a bigger caliper helping with the heat distribution.
-----------------------------------------------------------
B13 / B14 Z32 (300zx) Brake upgrade
And this is the part list:
Z32 calipers: (duh!)
I highly recommend to get the ones from the 1990 N/A 300zx, as they fit better in our little cars, and they won’t need a massively thick rotor.
U13 Altima (or G20) brake rotors:
They have the same diameter as the Z32 rotor (280mm), its a little bit thinner though (22mm vs the 26mm of the N/A Z)
(for those who want 4x114.3 all around use g20 rear hubs it bolts into your rear b13 spindle and this is a fact not speculation. Now you can have a P11 like me yaaaa! I think it should also work on the B14 as they share the same spindle-spline pattern.)
U13 Altima master cylinder:
It will be helpful, considering you have in one single wheel, the same amount of pistons you had in the whole car before lol
And this is the heart of the project, nothing makes sense, and nothing will fit on your car, unless you have this:
B15 Sentra Steering knuckle and hubs:
Yes, this means your front wheels will be now 114x4. But the Z32 caliper and Altima rotors will fit, right in. No adapter plates, no custom job. But most of the aftermaket wheels have 100x4 and 114x4, as my enkeis.
Optional parts:
This depends on the wheels you are using, due to spoke design of my wheels, I had to run spacers now.
Unfortunately, is not that easy, while bolting everything in, we found that due to the B15 knuckle, the rotor needs to be reduced in diameter 4 milimeters, or otherwise it will hit the caliper. So you have to take the rotors to a machine shop before bolting everything in.
I think is a good bang for the buck conversion, considering the ridiculous price out there for 4 piston brake kits. I will post some pics of the final results right now.
-----------------------------------------------------------
P11 Brake Upgrade
S14 calipers (30mm iron or aluminum, 26mm is also an option but then you need thinner discs).
S14 discs (280 x 30 mm) and drill them to 4 x 114,3 and turn them to 276 mm, or atleast that's what I did. Or buy discs with this specs OEM.
S14 pads (remove the wear indicator on the pad nearest to the wheel 'cause it can hit the wheelhub)
Sunny N14 banjobolt (2x) (the N14 banjobolt is shorter from the factory. In fact, the N14 bolt is the exact length you need if you should cut the P11 bolt (minus 5mm) so go to the Nissan dealer and buy these! It's plug n play!
P11 brakehoses (or Goodridge)
4 new bolts + washers to mount the calipers (always a good thing to have fresh mounting hardware)
Brake fluid (I did DOT5.1)
It's all plug 'n play now!. Car on jackstands, remove wheel, remove 2 nuts on the rear of the caliper, remove bajobolt, let fluid leak into a pan or something, remove caliper+disc, place new disc, place pads into calipers, put caliper back on, fit new bajobolt and make sure there's no air in the system.
Oops, I forgot 1 thing. You need to cut away the splash guard and grind/sand down a little bit (1mm perhaps) on the inside of the caliper cause there is a chance that the discs will scrape a tiny bit.
